WRR50: Cornering on a Motorcycle

One of the primary differences between driving and riding is how you navigate corners. While that might sound obvious, the actual physics behind how a bike corners are important to know.

We know that motorcycles change direction by leaning over onto the smaller circumference of the side of the tire, allowing you to track around that corner using steering and throttle inputs. But how do you get into that lean in the first place? Counter-steering. If you have taken the MSF or been riding motorcycles for a while you should be familiar with that term, but if you aren’t – don’t worry, you are already doing it whether you realize it or not. Counter-steering is basically turning the bars in the opposite direction that you want to go. Turn the bars to the left while at speed, and the bike will lean to the right and actually turn right. This “backwards” way of steering is very confusing to some people, in fact I’ve met riders who just flat out don’t believe it even though they’ve been riding for years.

A simple experiment you can do next time you are out riding: simply push on one side of the bars and notice that your bike turns in that direction. There you have it – simple as that.

Obviously there is a lot more at play than just how you actually steer. The MSF recommends a very good sequence to get in the habit of using around every corner: Slow, Look, Press, Lean, and Roll. As you ride, you need to analyze each corner as you approach. How tight is the corner, how clean is the pavement, can you see all the way through the turn or is the corner exit blocked by trees or mountainside? Before you reach the corner, you should have your corner entry speed set, and the proper gear selected. Another good mantra is “Slow in, Fast out.” You can always accelerate out of the corner, but come in too hot and you could find yourself in a tricky situation.

The next rule is LOOK through the corner. Always look where you want to go. Use your peripheral vision to continue to sweep the road immediately in front of you for debris or gravel, but your focus should be on the corner exit – or as far through the turn as you can see. Experiment with this. Try turning your head extra far, really exaggerate – you might be surprised at how your bike naturally tightens up the corner. This is a CRITICAL skill to develop – so don’t take it lightly.

PRESS. As we already mentioned, this is how bikes actually initiate the lean and “turn in.” Press on the bar in the direction you want to go. Press left, go left, press right, go right. You can also pull on the opposite grip to apply even pressure – most people do this without even thinking about it – but it’s still good to know what is going on. photo corner1.jpg

LEAN. This doesn’t need much explanation – but once you are in the turn you will use bar and throttle inputs to maintain your lean angle around the corner. Some corners tighten up, some open up, and sometimes you’ll find a surprise mid-corner. If this happens, just remember to LOOK where you want to go – NEVER look at what you want to avoid. Instead, look for your escape route or your best line. Likewise, never, ever look at the side of the road because you WILL run off it. I’ve seen many riders hit a guardrail because it scared them and they looked at it (and subsequently, rode right into it). photo corner2.jpg

ROLL. This is the FUN part. Use your throttle to accelerate through the corner. Remember most bikes have larger rear tires than front, and more grip is available at the rear. Rolling on the throttle transfers weight to the larger rear tire, stabilizes the suspension, and helps you keep your line. On many bikes it’s easy to over do it, so use that throttle judiciously – and feed more in as you are able to stand the bike up upon corner exit.  photo corner4.jpg

So that’s it! Those are the basics of getting around a corner on a motorcycle. Granted, that’s a very basic explanation. There are many more things at play such as your body position and more advanced techniques to learn such as trail braking or needing to shift mid corner. Follow the above until you are very comfortable taking corner after corner, and keep studying and practicing. Above all, have fun! Cornering on a motorcycle is one of the best feelings in the world! photo corner3.jpg

WRR48: How to Shift Gears on a Motorcycle (smoothly!)

20140521_145448Probably one of the most intimidating aspects of learning to ride a motorcycle for the first time is learning how to shift and using the clutch. In this video we demonstrate proper techniques for both learning how to ride as well as more advanced techniques for shifting smoothly.

If you’ve never ridden a motorcycle before, then you need to know a few basic concepts before you hop on. Almost all motorcycles use a standard, or manual transmission. If you have driven a car with a manual transmission, you have a bit of an advantage, but there are some key differences. The first difference is obvious: you use your left foot to shift the gears and your left hand to operate the clutch. The second difference, is the motorcycle’s transmission is sequential – all that means is you have to shift the gears in order 1, 2, 3, 4, 3, 2, 1 and so on. Shift down by pressing down on the shift lever, and shift up by sticking the toe of your boot underneath the lever and lifting up. You should feel a solid click with each shift.


Shifting into Neutral

The first thing you’ll want to do when you hop on is find neutral. Most bikes have a green light, sometimes with “N” or “Neutral” on it that you’ll want to look for. Neutral is typically located between 1st and 2nd gear. First step is to click all the way down until you can’t shift anymore. This should have you in 1st gear (you’ll want to verify if this is true for your particular bike before you get started). If the lever feels very notchy or doesn’t want to go, try roll the bike back and forth just slightly to free up the gears. Once you are all the way down in first, apply a small amount of upward pressure to the shift lever, until it clicks into neutral. If your ignition is on, the green light should come on. Some bikes can be a little finicky, and may go right to second. If this happens, go back to first and try again – don’t worry, it happens to everyone.

Finding the Friction Zone

Now that the bike is in neutral, give the clutch lever a few squeezes, just to get the feel of how hard it is to pull the lever. Some bikes are more of a workout than others. Now go ahead and hold the clutch in all the way, and get the bike started. Many bikes require that you hold the clutch in, and some don’t if you are in neutral, but it’s a good habit to be in anyway. Continue holding the clutch in, apply the front brake, and go ahead and click the lever down into first gear. The bike may clunk or even lurch a bit (that’s why you want to hold the brake). Now, with the bike idling, you can start to find the friction zone. This is where the clutch is beginning to engage, which gets the bike moving. If there is one thing you remember, it’s that if you pull the clutch in the bike will NOT continue to accelerate. If you get overwhelmed or start feeling like you’re loosing control, the first thing you do is pull in that clutch lever. So, back to riding! With the clutch in, hand off the brakes, and the bike in first gear, s l o w l y let the clutch out until you start feeling the bike pull you forward just a bit. You may also notice the engine rpm’s drop a bit. Take note of how far you needed to let the lever out before anything started to happen. This is the friction zone, where the fun starts!

Getting Underway

Now that you’ve spent some time rocking back and forth a little bit, it’s time to get going! You are going to simultaneously give the bike a SMALL amount of throttle, while smoothly releasing the clutch lever. The key here is to be SMOOTH with the clutch. If you let it out too fast, the bike will either stall out or it may take you for a wild ride if you are giving it a lot of gas. So concentrate on letting that clutch out slowly – all the way. A typical rookie mistake is to get right to the friction zone and then think it’s ok to just let it out all at once. That is incorrect! It will make for a very jerky ride.


Shifting Up and Down

Once you are comfortable starting from a stop, the rest is relatively easy. Upshifts consist of pulling in the clutch, letting off the gas, shifting up, then simultaneously getting back on the gas and smoothly letting the clutch out. This requires a lot less precision then starting from a dead stop. Downshifting is a little more challenging, as the engine will be slowing you down more and more each time you shift into a lower gear. Again, the key is to be very smooth with the clutch. Downshift 1 click, then slowly let the clutch lever out. You’ll feel the engine speed rise and the bike slow down even more. Not being smooth here can lead to a very jerky feeling, and can even cause a crash if you are shifting mid corner (not a good idea to shift mid-corner while you are still learning). A more advanced technique to smooth downshifts is blipping the throttle. This is simply giving the bike a little “blip” of throttle between each downshift. The goal is to get the engine up to the rpms it will need to be at for the next lower gear. Get it right, and you’ll have nice, smooth downshifts. The real trick is applying smooth braking pressure while you blip the throttle. And the only advice I can give you is practice practice practice! One last piece of advice: If you think you may have accidentally shifted down more than one gear (ie. two clicks at the brake lever before you let the clutch out), ALWAYS go back up a gear. Being in a gear too high isn’t that big a deal, but downshifting into 1st when you think you’re going into 2nd can get very precarious.

We hope you found this little tutorial useful. Remember to subscribe to our channel. Weekly Rides with Reuben are uploaded every Wednesday!



WRR47: Dealing with Gravel on Motorcycles



So you’re out on your bike, enjoying a beautiful day in the twisties.  You have a good rhythm going, hitting your lines, feeling great – when suddenly AHH! Gravel in the corner.  What do you do?  Your actions in this split second can mean the difference between riding it out or crashing.

The number one thing you need to take away from this, is DO NOT LOOK at the gravel.  Instead, look at the clear patch or the path with the least amount of gravel. Remember motorcycling 101: you go where you look. Quickly draw your focus to the best possible line through the gravel – hopefully keeping the bike in your lane. If you have time, scrub off some speed before you hit it – but once you are on the gravel, LET OFF THE BRAKES!  Braking while in a corner on gravel will usually result in you hitting the pavement.

20140429_175422Braking in a corner can also mean your bike stands up and goes wide, and remember, we are trying to stay in our lane. Wiping out on gravel is still better than having a head on with a car or truck!

Continue reading WRR47: Dealing with Gravel on Motorcycles

WRR45: Living Cage Free

Ever wondered what it would be like to own just a bike, and rely on it as your only form of transportation? In many parts of the world, that’s just the normal, middle class way of life. Here in the 1st world, most families have at least two cars, maybe even a third “Sunday” car that’s just for fun. Maybe you aren’t there yet, or maybe that quite frankly just doesn’t appeal to you. Living life on two wheels is definitely doable, here are some things to consider:


Financial Savings
This is really going to depend on what bike you end up choosing. Smaller displacement bikes are generally cheaper to run all around. Not only do they use less fuel, they are also much easier on tires, brakes, chains, sprockets, and other wear items. Insurance companies typically base your rate based on engine size too, so that’s another plus to owning a smaller bike. While bikes can be quite economical and definitely use less fuel than your average car, by the time you factor in the cost of tires and other wear items – are we really saving much money compared to a car? Well, again, that depends on what car you are replacing or getting rid of. My bike gets approximately double the fuel mileage of my truck, so yeah, it’s cheaper for me to ride to work.

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WRR44: Riding the New Suzuki VStrom 1000 (DL1000)


After covering a few small displacement bikes over the past several weeks, I was excited to get back on a big bike with some power. Don’t get me wrong, little bikes can be really fun, but big power is, well, fun-er. I was even more excited that the bike I would be riding was the all new Vstrom 1000, a complete redesign of the popular (albeit ugly) adventure touring bike.


I get the sense that Suzuki designed the original DL1000 (and the 650) with touring in mind, but maybe what they didn’t fully expect is how adventurous some strom riders would actually be. Tackling trails, moto camping, and even full on dirt-biking with their big touring bike maybe wasn’t what they fully envisioned, but what they couldn’t deny is the bikes were actually quite good for some adventure. The new DL1000 picks up on the adventure bike market trend and really runs with it. A more adventurous styling package is the first thing you’ll notice, and oh how refreshing it is. That’s my opinion, of course, but I’ll be honest. I would have seriously considered a DL650 or 1k, they seemed to be right up my alley, but I just couldn’t get past that styling. This new V-strom 1000 is so much better (again, my opinion). Sure, it’s a bit like the other bikes in this category, but it works, and looks decent.

The redesign is definitely more than skin deep, though. A 13% reduction in weight means this new model is just a hair over 500lbs, and there are plenty of other great new improvements as well. The V-Strom 1000 is the first Suzuki with traction control, and yes, you can turn it off. With this much power on tap, having a little help might not be a bad thing, either. The engine has been thoroughly redesigned, with very efficient fueling and seemingly no downsides to power delivery. From 3k rpm and up the Vstrom pulls and pulls hard, having that much power on tap, in any gear, means for effortless highway cruising and touring, loaded or not.




Suspension has also been redone, soaking up bumps without feeling too vague in the corners. Braking is likewise excellent, with ABS kicking in only when needed.

There are many things I loved about this bike, but the one downside was the wind blast off the windshield. I know this was a common complaint on the previous generation bikes, and was hoping they would have done their homework in that department, but my experience lead me to believe otherwise. Wind noise on the highway is deafening, ear plugs would be an absolute requirement. The windshield is, however, adjustable, and I didn’t have the luxury of playing with different positions to see if I could get it a bit better. Of course aftermarket replacements are always an option, too. Fix that one issue, and Suzuki has a home run motorcycle on their hands. I know I’d be happy to ride one across the country, loaded down with luggage, camping gear, exploring unknown areas and just really getting out there. This is that kind of motorcycle.

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